Siem Reap: More Than Just Angkor Wat

When most travellers think of Cambodia, they picture the spires of Angkor Wat rising out of the mist. We did too, until our spontaneous trip to Siem Reap turned into so much more.

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We organised an overnight bus to Siem Reap through the staff at our villa the day before departure. After stashing our kiteboarding gear, we hopped into a tuk-tuk bound for the station. The bus itself was surprisingly modern, with two layers of human-sized “pigeon holes” — just big enough to fit our 176 cm frames lying flat. A clever idea, really: the plan was to sleep most of the way from 8 p.m. to the 6 a.m. arrival.

The trip was uneventful but absolutely freezing. I didn’t realise blankets were provided, and the one I eventually found was so thin it barely helped. Tip: bring a few layers and wear trousers. Another insider tip from our host — the upper deck is quieter and has slightly more headroom, making it the better choice.

Meeting Our Tuk-Tuk Driver

At the bus station we were approached by a tuk-tuk driver who promised to match any Grab fare (the Asian equivalent of Uber). At 6 a.m., we thought “why not?” and it turned out to be one of our best decisions. He spoke excellent English, was honest, friendly and offered to take us anywhere for just US $7 per person per day. Deal done.

First Impressions of Siem Reap

Angkor Wat itself is a UNESCO site, so visitors actually stay in Siem Reap, just a short drive away. We booked a place within walking distance of town. It was great value: attentive staff, a clean pool and a plentiful breakfast.
After exploring on foot, we thought the “Old French Quarter” across the river might have been an even nicer location with its colonial architecture, but Siem Reap is compact and easily walkable, so it wasn’t a big deal.
Our original plan was to stay three or four days then move on. In the end we stayed six — or was it seven? — because there was much more to do than we’d expected.

What We Did in Siem Reap

Three-Day Angkor Pass (valid for seven days)
We instructed our tuk-tuk driver to limit ourselves to a maximum of three temples per day to avoid “temple fatigue” and beat the midday heat.

This slower pace let us appreciate the artistry, engineering and sheer history of Angkor without being overwhelmed. I even bought a book from a vendor to learn more. Maybe one day I will read it - self-confessed ignoramus!

Cycling Around the Ruins
On one of our “off” days I took my bike along bush paths around the outskirts of Angkor and into nearby villages, while Tass and Dennis hired a motorbike.

A grilled snake-fish and vegetables with rice from a roadside stall cost just US $2 and was delicious.

Cooking Class With a Local Family
Our driver introduced us to a friend starting a cooking class (Malis Homestay and Cooking Class). We were sceptical at first but ended up having a fantastic day.

We shopped for ingredients in a local market. This was far more rustic than the CBD markets with its ramshackle building and haphazard setting for vendors inside, then we headed to his home.

Together with his wife and children we chopped, stirred, picked herbs from the garden and even chased snails for the menu.

The rice-spirit home brew made the afternoon even more jovial.

We cooked up a banquet. There was more than enough for twice our group size and it was absolutely delicious.

Markets
Siem Reap’s markets offer all kinds of goods. With fewer tourists around, the sellers were polite and not pushy. English is widely spoken, but I still try to learn at least “please” (arkoun) and “hello” (soksabai). Google Translate helps too, especially for Tass’s later and successful second attempt to buy an old vehicle number plate - communist era no less !

Pub Street

In the evenings the street closes to traffic and fills with people ready to eat, drink and party. It’s touristy but fun. One time we went there just as the heavens opened. The street was completely flooded, but drained as soon as the deluge stopped.

War Museum
Dennis and Tass visited and returned quiet after confronting the stories and exhibits of Pol Pot and the US bombings. Having seen war sites elsewhere, I gave it a miss this time.

There was another, more conventional museum that explored the history of Cambodia through the ancient times. There were many artefacts and explanatory videos to keep one occupied for quite some time.

APOPO Landmine Detection Rat Centre
I usually avoid anything war-related, but this visit was special. The work these rats and the organisation do is inspiring, and the rats themselves are undeniably cute. It’s sobering that only a small team tackles the million-plus landmines still in Cambodia. I can’t recommend this stop highly enough. (Read more: APOPO on Wikipedia).

Floating Village
We drove out but skipped the boat tours. Perhaps we were a little travel-fatigued, but we saw plenty from the road and tourist port.

Massages
Like Kampot, Siem Reap is full of massage and beauty parlours. Many are clean, inexpensive and professional, there are also a few that aren't. A proper massage runs at about USD 8–15 depending on oils or hot stones. We indulged daily, easing the aches from buses and tuk-tuks.

Wrapping Up

What we thought would be a quick three-day visit easily stretched to a week. Siem Reap is full of great food, shopping and activities. I’d happily return, next time with a deeper understanding of the history and perhaps a trip to the older city in the mountains and the coffee-growing areas further out.

I almost forgot - the Circus !

We watched a production by the Phare circus, which is devoted to training young people and has been running continuously to the extent it has been entered into the Guiness book of records. Their acrobatics and showmanship were on par with any in the world.